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~ Bahía de Banderas ~
The Bay of Flags plunges
to around 1800m (5900ft), has 160km (100mi) of sensational shoreline and comfortably makes it into the list of the 10
biggest bays in the world (it's number seven). Ostensibly the submerged
crater of a long-extinguished volcano, Bahía de Banderas is an environmental wonderland populated
by giant manta rays, dolphins and (during their birthing season from November through March) humpback whales. It's also inhabited by activity-crazy humans, occupying themselves by diving, fishing, water skiing and generally
enjoying themselves in and around the bay's waters.
North of town, in the aptly
titled Zona Hotelera, is a string of beaches dominated by the multi-storey shadows of five-star hotels.
Heading up towards the Marina Vallarta, you'll pass Playa Camarones, Las Glorias, Los Tules, Las Palmas and Playa de Oro,
while just past where the luxury sloops gather is Playa El Salado.
To the south of Puerto Vallarta
is another string of pearls: Playa Conchas Chinas, Estacas, Los Venados, Punta Negra, Garza Blanca and Gemelas.
~ Divers and Snorkellers ~
The highlights for divers
and snorkellers are Los Arcos, a grand tangle of environmentally protected
rocks just south of Playa Gemelas, and Islas Marietas, a maze of reefs, tunnels and underwater
caves at the mouth of the bay that's regularly attended by marine wildlife - fortunately this doesn't include sharks,
which are kept out of the bay by resident dolphins intent on protecting their young.
~ Beaches of Puerto Vallarta ~
Though downtown Puerto Vallarta
has its attractions, this resort's prime raison d'être is the white sandy stuff sprinkled along the
edges of the adjacent Bahía de Banderas. The beautiful local beaches begin
in town, south of the Río Cuale, in the guise of the towel-swept Playa Olas Atlas ('Beach of the Big Waves', though to be honest there's nary a big wave to be seen here)
and next door at Playa de los Muertos ('Beach of the Dead', a name which apparently
harks back to some long-forgotten seaside battle).
Downtown ~ Puerto Vallarta, Mexico:
Though Puerto Vallarta is now dominated
by its modernistic, resort-stacked beaches, there are enough of the old red-roofed adobe houses lining the streets and cobblestones
underfoot to keep alive the spirit of a once-charming seaside village. To get a sense of the more-established parts
of the centre, stroll a block east of the pedestrian-tramped Plaza Principal to
the towering facade of the city's landmark cathedral, Templo de Guadalupe, built in 1951
and adorned with the replica of a crown worn by an 18th-century Mexican empress. Backtrack across the square to the
arches of the outdoor amphitheatre on the bay.
Meandering its way north
from the amphitheatre is the Malecón, a long seaside walkway adorned with a larger-than-life
seahorse statue, a plethora of drinking dens, and plenty of places catering to la comida
(the main meal of the day - taken in the early afternoon) and la cena (the typically lighter
evening meal). There are several Cuban cigar bars on this strip for after dinner.
Wedged into the mouth of the Río Cuale,
the slender river that divides the city into its distinctive northern and southern swathes, is the 2ha (5ac) Isla Cuale. This diminutive island is littered with restaurants and shops, the latter mostly
specialising in clothes and local arts - for some good deals on Mexico's outstanding range of artesanías
(handicrafts), cross over to the north bank of the Río Cuale where you'll find the 150-stall market called Mercado Municipal. At the island's western, Pacific-viewing end is a tiny, lush botanical garden
and the equally tiny Museo del Cuale, which features a collection of pre-Hispanic
archaeological artefacts from tombs cracked open throughout Jalisco state, as well as in the neighbouring states of Colima
and Nayarit.
Puerto Vallarta garners more cultural
credentials with its impressive array of art galleries. Most have an emphasis on contemporary Latin American
painting and sculpture, and exhibit local, regional and national artistry - local examples include the angelic portraiture
of Manuel Lepe, and the colourful creative toil of Huichol Indians who live in the rangy mountains of the nearby Sierra Madre
Occidental.
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